Tristan Narvaja Fair Fan

He wanted to get to the Sunday Tristan Narvaja fair early in the morning to take advantage of the best deals.

El Abrojo Again

Not the clearest picture, but there it is...the Abrojo plant (the spiny sharp part of it anyways). I wrote about the El Abrojo school a few months ago, but via the blog I didn't explain why the school chose this name. They took their El Abrojo name due to this plant's spiny fruit (as seen in the picture) that is known to stick to peoples' clothes...and continue with the carrier on his journey in life.

Bartolome Mitre

A week ago this past Tuesday, Ciudad Vieja's Bartolome Mitre street was like Marti Gras during St. Patrick's Day. This Tuesday night, it was full of folk listening to one of the Frente Amplio political party's presidential candidates.

A bit of a different ambiance on this street; interesting all the same.

Bus Fares Change...Once Again

It's as if the city were reading this blog. No longer does a CA-1 or boleto centrico ride cost the awkward 7.50 pesos, but now 8 pesos. Much easier to deal with, and still very cheap.

Valle del Hilo de la Vida - Minas Uruguay

It’s a tiny stream in the hills outside of town named Minas. Valle del Hilo de la Vida funnels down a hill that looks like a crescent moon if viewed above from the sky. It was a ritual area for the people of Uruguay thousands of years ago; remnants of this are shown by the many rock towers built on the moon’s hillside. The visitor is taken through a short history, shown that similar rock towers exist in many other locations of the world, and most interestingly is exposed to new ideas for the history of Uruguay’s land.



An extremely friendly, engaging and knowledgeable husband and wife own the land, and come out to their Montevideo-get-away every weekend to enjoy their paradise – when people visit the couple is more than happy to show it off as well for a mere 100 pesos per person. They are not looking to make the tour a big business, but rather to expose their Uruguayan people and others to the idea that there is a different history than previously thought…and apparently still taught in school.

They can be contacted at 099 66 30 84 to coordinate a visit.

Another Empanada Found...in Minas

We've got alot to cover from this weekend. But for now I want to declare that my favorite cordera empanada was found - in the gorgeous hills of Valle del Hilo de Vida near the city of Minas, Uruguay. There is much more to come from this past weekend. Please stay tuned...

No Part Wasted with the Vaca

I am surprised that I haven't seen a plate with four giant hooves sticking up at the eater.

And if this plate does exist here, I am confident that they are some great tasting hooves...at least for the people who are into eating a hoof or two.

Unexpected Empanada Score

It doesn't look like much, but what a treat.

I had just finished a run of about two blocks - I am slowly working my back into shape - and I stopped into this corner shop named Un Gusto.

Their empanadas rocked my world; they are tasty, they have great masa, they are full of whatever filling asked for, and they are cheap as well - Jackpot.

It's near the Rambla on Canelones and Wilson Ferriera.

Wait, this might not be good for getting back into shape...

St Patrick's Review

Well the night didn't disappoint - it was the second time I felt a mini Marti Gras atmosphere around me - the first time being with the pre-Christmas celebrations in the Mercado de Puerto. What is going on here in Montevideo?? This shot was taken at 4am after the crowd had left - the stranders made a crowd of their own.

Inside Viejo Mitre was just as crazy with a packed dance floor. Fantastic beats with the guest DJs, solid times with the great staff at Viejo Mitre, and another classic night is in the books. I still didn't earn any tips, but that is alright. Maybe next time. Perhaps not though. No worries.

Not Connected

I have been without my laptop now for over a week. Hence, the entries have been slower. I don't have a connection to put up my pictures now, but I promise some good ones are coming out soon. Until then, a very delayed article of mine was published on In The Know Traveler about my Mexico times.

St. Patricks Party Tuesday March 17th - Viejo Mitre Bar

The biggest production of the year is set for tomorrow. A well known DJ will be performing and the night is expected to be a big blast. The bar is on Bartolome Mitre in Ciudad Vieja. There are two floors and a mountain of space with a dance. It should be a night to remember.

Fidel Castro and Cuba

So in my Che Guevara readings, I am learning more and more about Fidel Castro. As usual I have been asking people about their thoughts, and their thoughts on Cuba in general. I have received some starkly different opinions on life there- strange, and interesting. For example, I spoke to a friend's cousin a few days ago who grew up in Cuba. Upon being asked if it was illegal to speak negatively about Fidel or the government, he told me that it was completely fine. There are even musical groups whose lyrics voice out their criticisms of the system on the island nation.

He spoke of a comfortable life (not including Havana where life has been altered due to outside influences). A life where neighbors walk into each other's homes to grab some milk. A community that shares everything including the rum bottle and many hours of talking. People don't search for more money or faster, bigger, better things. They are content with what the government has given them and they enjoy their days together in a very relaxed, simple environment.

For the first time, Cuba sounded like a different country full of content people who value what they have (not including the capital city Havana). It was refreshing hearing these words from someone who knew his Cuba. But of course it opens up the curiosity banks in me. What is life really like there?

New Bus Prices - 15 Pesos in Montevideo

Yesterday it finally arrived...the increase in bus fares. It´s no longer the 14 pesos, but now 15 (from around 59 cents to 63.5 cents). But like this price a bit more (trying to find a positive in this increase besides helping out the government gain funds to help its citizens) - now the coins used for change are limited with the 5 peso piece.

But then comes the new, nicer busses in Montevideo that were charging the strange 7 pesos. Now they demand 7.50 pesos. Even stranger. I feel like this little .50 peso is being faded out already (as in the lines of supermarkets when the bill comes to 54.65, for example, the tally is rounded to the nearest .50 peso mark. Next it will be to the nearest full peso mark.

Cultural Enjoyment

Walking through the Plaza de Independencia (Plaza of Independence...very different in Spanish, I know), I saw this group of performers.

I was shocked, and stopped in my tracks. Maybe I am off here, but I was impressed with seeing another culture's tradition being randomly displayed in public. It wasn't Carnival or some other special event, but some foreigners letting Uruguay get a glimpse of their land probably very far away.

I have seen Asian people before in the Plaza de Independencia (without the unnecessary translation in parenthesis). But these groups, of men usually, are workers that arrived from the cruise ships to spend a few hours or days of work break - or so I was told.

But on balance, I enjoyed seeing this new act in the streets of Montevideo - a welcomed change!

It was juicy. It was soft. It was tasty. It cost about USD 5.50. It was served on its own (because it needed no side players - this was the real deal). It was the best steak I have experienced here in Uruguay thus far.

It still doesn't match up to a dream-like memory I have of a piece of meat tasted in Salta, Argentina, but it was close. And close enough to keep my hopes up in finding that one perfect steak here in Uruguay. Vamos arriba.

Tristan Narvaja Street Fair

Every Sunday a huge street market (covering more than a few blocks) is showcased on Tristan Narvaja street just off of 18 de Julio in Montevideo's city center. The fair has food, antiques, music, (some strange) animals for sale, and more.

On the days when the fair isn´t pumping, Tristan Narvaja is a great place to go book hunting with heaps of stores selling used and new books. Cafes are around along with restaurants, a Tupamaro Museum (a violent Marxist urban guerrilla movement), and more.

Retail World of Montevideo

I've been a bit flustered before with Uruguay in my process of buying an apartment here. It has been a struggle for me, and even more so an intense cultural lesson when money is on the line. I enjoy learning from different cultures in a variety of settings, but when my money is at risk and my time is not unlimited to look for opportunities my tolerance decreases. You have just entered part of my world for a second.

Yesterday I went looking for some electric appliances on 18 de Julio (the main street here in Montevideo). Not only did the "sellers" not get up out of their seats at times, I felt as if they didn't want to sell me anything. I.E. looking at a kitchen oven for 3 minutes, looking over at the seller dude as if to say 'I have a question' a few times, and the man stayed sitting. Then after telling him that I found a better deal next door, he said "great", but did not think to give me a discount until I returned 5 minutes later and bluntly asked him (to which he immediately said 'yes' to, as if he didn't understand that this is what I was going for).

I understand the argument live to work vs. work to live. But I didn't understand what happened at a few stores yesterday when the sellers were basically pushing away money from an interested buyer with basic questions and needs. Later on I learned of the 'group commission' set up in the stores and how no one likes to work for their workmates. So all of them sit around. Logical.

Sad, Sad Day in Travel Writing

No pictures or humor in this post (not that the ones before have been belly-busters [great term]). Over the years of travel and writing, I have learned a few golden rules. Among some of them are:

1. Always have a pen with you
2. Try to learn from everyone - whether that be a CEO of a powerful company or the dude watching cars on the street for pesos a day
3. Keep writing, even if it is an effort

These are a select few of my rules for myself. But I added one today: don't be careless with the mini journal you have been keeping for 4 months and writing in everyday to later make some interesting articles from (can you tell that this sentence was typed in about two seconds and a bit emotionally?). I was getting out of the bus this morning, and a nice older lady let me know that my little pocket notepad had slipped out of my back pocket. 'Thanks, ma'am.'

But then I put it right back into the same pocket it fell out of...and hence I no longer have the little gem of knowledge that I have built. Ouch. NOT happy right now.

The Best Bar in Montevideo´s Ciudad Vieja: Viejo Mitre

Somehow I have found myself working (sort of) at a bar the past two weeks. The owner is great; the employees just as good (and many of them friends). Viejo Mitre, on Bartolome Mitre in Ciudad Vieja, has fantastic chivitos and other food, tasty (and cheap with specials constantly being given) drinks and beers, and now (drum roll) the music is taking shape. I.E. I have been adding some of my music library to the bar's setting.

So if you are in Montevideo looking for a relaxed friendly bar, come by and say hello. Pues, si estas en montevideo y buscas un bar tranquilo y amable, ven aca para decir hola. If I am not there, ask for Nacho and he will help you out. But keep your eye on this place...it will be getting very popular soon with the new vibe.

Ernesto Che Guevara

This is not as much of a blog posting as a confession - an embarrassing confession at that. I have spent over a year in South America (cumulatively, and not the confession - I am getting to that). Che has still has a huge following here in South America even though he died back in 1967. He is a figure, among other things, in the struggle(s) of this continent. But I don't know too much about him beyond what the Motorcycle Diaries depicted.

A few years ago I was even blatantly belittled (although at the time it didn't occur to me) by a street vendor in Cusco, Peru. Upon seeing a cool photo of Che Guevara, I started up conversation. The guy told me that if I knew his first name that I could take the photo for free. I knew his first name, I knew it started with an 'E', but I couldn't spit it out. Smack.

Sure, I have asked locals what they think about him and done some cursory internet research, but nothing sufficient enough to have a grasp on the subject. Hence, I have been reading his biography for the past week. Pretty soon it will be time to test local peoples' knowledge. Should be interesting...