Uruguay's Indigenous Population

There really isn't any (estimated 8% mestizo population). Go to Paraguay, Bolivia, or Peru and you will find another story, but here in Uruguay the indigenous blood is scarce. Sure there are a few mestizos, but this is an embarrassing story for Uruguay's history.

The Charrua Indians occupied the lands before the Europeans arrived to present day Uruguay and the surrounding areas. For centuries the indigenous tribes were cut down, until in 1831, the Churrua were apparently invited to a friendly meeting in Uruguay's Salsipuedes. There, they were massacred. Only four of the Charrua remained and were sent to France. Sad stuff.

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New article published, but not really related to my Montevideo times...

Uruguayan Gestures #3

This is a classic. Making a check in front of your chin means "Great" or "All Good". As in, 'Hey, how are you?' and this gesture is demonstrated as a response.

And even though it is a very traditional gesture as well (some consider it to be old-fashioned), it might be my least favorite. If you ever see me make this gesture in your presence, I now (in documented writing) give you full-blown consent to smack my hand into my chin. Hard.

Sweets in Uruguay

If you spend time in Uruguay or Argentina, eating Dulce de Leche is a must. It's a sweet caramel type substance that is very addicting. It is sold everywhere in Montevideo; many times via these ready-made sugary sandwiches. At first I was skeptical, but I tried one. I thought they were too over-the-top in richness.

Now I eat at least one a day. Go figure.

Uruguayan Gestures #2

One of my favorites here in Gaucho-Mate-Land. If you were to use this flicking off from the chin in the States or in Italy or in most of the world, it would be understood as such: flicking off a person. But here it means, "I don't know?". But in the sense of the idea that the person really has no intention of knowing or that the fact is not too important.

Good job model Joanna.

Favorite Photographs

It's that photo taken in a second. Without thought. Without motivation. Without planning. By pure chance. And it came out fantastically. At least I think so.

Once again, Viejo Mitre in Ciudad Vieja does not disappoint.

Pets

Here in Uruguay it is fairly normal to see free roaming dogs cruise the streets, roads, or fields. From my travels in South America this seems to be the norm. Rule to remember: if you feel threatened by a dog in your route, grab a rock and pretend like you are going to throw it at the beast...or if you can't find a rock, just pretend that you have something to hurl. The animals react (however in the States the dog would look at you as if to say, "Are you challenged?").


But here in parts of this country I have come across some classic perros. Whether it be for their characteristic faces, actions, or locations. For example, what was this guy doing??

Uruguayan Gestures #1

I have honestly never been around a culture that uses- consistently and frequently uses- so many gestures. Sure, Italians speak with their hands. But Uruguayans give detailed soliloquìes with their digits. The following entries won't cover all of the gestures used. A) because there are a lot to go over and B) some of them I don't want to explain.



Our lovely (and very shy) model Joanna exhibits the first of the many gestos: ojo (eye). As in, "be careful" or "be suspicious of whatever the subject is".

Every Friday a new Uruguayan gesture (those that aren't completely foul and offensive) will be posted, as long as we can keep it up. If you have a gesture you would like to show, send it on over to my email...

The Gaucho Gas Men

You want to meet someone for business at 9am? Good luck. If they are there at 9:15am that is punctual. If they are in construction and make it at anytime within the 9's of the morning then I am impressed. Bottomline, Uruguay's time orientation is like much of Latin America's: different, and delayed.

There are clearly bonuses and pros of having such a relaxed ambiance...until you really need something in 10 minutes, or one week, or whatever. But then enter the Uruguayan Gas-Man.

I had been frustrated with my apartment's "complications" for the previous three weeks. The final date of it's completion was pushed back three times for no apparent reason. Then I smelled gas leaking from my stove's tank. "Oh no. I will sit here for two days filling up my apartment with gaseous fumes waiting for a methodically mellowly slow gas technician to help me out" was my thinking.

I call at 7pm to ask for help, and I am returned with an astonishing, "We will have someone there within an hour." I couldn't believe my ears, and so I didn't. 'They will be here in 2 hours' went my thoughts.

Ring. 45 minutes had gone by, and already this glorious gas-fixer-man was at my door. Being so thrilled with the service, I had to snap a shot of him...one in which he was very happy to take.

Best Spanish Tutor - Montevideo, Uruguay

I've gone to more tutors than I care to admit - whether it be in the States, Bolivia, Costa Rica, Argentina, or Uruguay. My favorite tutor, by far, is in Montevideo.

You will not want to sleep (like in the picture, clever yeah?) when taking an individual (or group) class with Leticia. She makes you feel at ease, test your knowledge, and she really enjoys helping others. If you are looking to learn some Uruguayan Spanish, get hold of her...you won't regret it. $7 an hour was her individual rate.

Leticia's email: leticejas@hotmail.com

La Ley de Caducidad - Let's Get Them

250,000 signatures need to be obtained by April 25th to get this proposition onto the ballots for November's election. It's aims are to reverse a law established in 1989 which gave impunity to the important players in the dictatorship of Uruguay.

I'm told that someone who could have tortured Uruguayan citizens during the dictatorship would now be walking around on the Uruguayan streets free as a bird, and receiving a government pension on top of it all.

The movemnent lacks some 26,000 votes as of a month ago, and the citizens are sure that this bill will be put up for voting come November. Vamo arriba Uruguay.

Update: Article on Matador Pulse.

Una Negra

It's been awhile since I have seen a painting or picture that has really caught my eye like this one did. I was walking along 18 de Julio when I noticed it for sale on the sidewalk. A gringo's loose translation:

When I was born
I was black
When I grew up
I was black
When I am exposed to the sun
I am black
If it is cold
I am black
If I am sick
I am black
When I die
I will be black
But you
When you are born
You're pink
When you grow up
You´re white
If you go out in the sun
You´re red
If you are cold
You´re blue
If you are sick
You´re yellow
And when you die
You turn purple
And you have the courage
to call me colored?

Finding the Gauchos of Uruguay

The day reminded me of being in Texas: the horses, the rodeo, and the ruggedness. But here they aren't called cowboys - they are Gauchos. They all didn't wear the normal wide brimmed hat, and they weren't chewing on tobacco. But they are cowboys...just in Uruguay a bit south of Texas and Mexico.





The Gaucho Festival was in the small town of San Jacinto - just 8 kilometers from Estacion Pedrera.




The freshly grilled Gaucho meat (because we were in Gaucho land) makes you want to stay for days - the beer was a simple sidenote. And unlike rodeos I have been to before, most of the spectators were sipping on their mate in place of their Budweiser, or Pilsen.

More pics are here...

Estación Pedrera - Canelones

Probably thinking that I was another Uruguayan hungry for some vaca flavors, this cow was staring me down like no one's business. But I wasn't in this small town, Estación Pedrera of Canelones, in search of my next meal.




Carmen, the director of Vivi Uruguay, showed me around: the town's grocery store which doubles as a bar and where all the community's information/news is found; the church; the school; the former Nazi farm across the road; and then the trash.

It's a simple little town needing funding for better schools, a medical establishment, a better trash system, more work for it's young people, and more of a future essentially. For an insight into traditional Uruguayan food, customs, and the revered Gaucho, contact www.viviuruguay.com. Visit the town. Get to know another Uruguay. And tell the nervous cow that he is safe...for now.

Onto the Gauchos encountered in the town and it's surroundings next...