I have been hanging out with a few wonderful locals here. Very sweet people, and generous with their time and patience with my Gringo Spanish (although every single one of them can speak English at anytime, they are just humoring me).
Back to the rhythm of the city. For the moment, I have found my nightly rhythm for the hours between 7pm and 9pm - I drink mate with artisans on the walking street. Actually one artisan in particular - my friend, Antonio the Payaso. And just tonight I learned more about him...he studied singing when he attended the University of Montevideo. Seriously.