Montevideo: The Beating Heart of Uruguayan Football

 

Montevideo is not just a city - it's the epicenter of one of the world's most passionate football cultures. With a rich history spanning over a century,

Montevideo's soccer scene is a testament to the sport's deep-rooted significance in Uruguayan society.

 

 

The Iconic Stadiums

At the heart of Montevideo's football legacy stands the majestic Estadio Centenario. Built in 1930 to host the inaugural FIFA World Cup, this 60,235-capacity stadium has been declared a Historical Monument of World Football by FIFA - the only one of its kind1. The Centenario isn't just a venue; it's a living museum of Uruguayan football glory. But Montevideo's football landscape extends beyond this iconic structure. The city boasts several other significant stadiums:

• Estadio Campeón del Siglo (40,165 capacity)
• Estadio Gran Parque Central (34,446 capacity), the nation's oldest stadium, built in 1900
• Smaller yet passionate venues like Complejo Rentistas and Parque Maracaná1

The Eternal Rivalry: Peñarol vs. Nacional

The heart of Montevideo's football culture beats strongest in the fierce rivalry between Peñarol and Nacional, known as the Uruguayan Clásico. This rivalry, one of the oldest in world football, dates back to 19007. Peñarol, originally founded as Central Uruguay Railway Cricket Club (CURCC) by English railway workers in 1891, has claimed 50 Primera División titles. Nacional, not far behind with 47 titles, was formed in 18997. Together, these two clubs have dominated Uruguayan football, winning an astounding 83% of all first division league titles7. The intensity of this rivalry is palpable throughout Montevideo. As Eduardo Galeano, Uruguay's celebrated writer, documented, the passion of the Superclásico fans forms the basis of many insults between the two sets of supporters, a tradition hardened since the 1940s.

Grassroots Football: The Secret of Uruguay's Success

Despite its small population of just 3.4 million, Uruguay has consistently produced world-class football talent. The secret lies in Montevideo's extensive network of baby fútbol clubs. Greater Montevideo, home to more than half of Uruguay's population, is dotted with these youth clubs. Children often grow up within walking distance of a club, playing 7-v-7 matches against neighboring teams. This grassroots system ensures that talent is rarely overlooked3. The best young players are selected for inter-city competitions, where scouts from professional clubs spot promising talent. Top clubs like Peñarol and Nacional maintain close ties with these baby fútbol institutions, creating a smooth pathway for young talent to reach the highest levels of the game.

City Football Academy: A New Chapter

In March 2021, Montevideo's football landscape welcomed a new addition: the City Football Academy. This state-of-the-art facility, owned by City Football Group, serves as the training and administrative headquarters for Montevideo City Torque. The academy boasts six pitches, a community pitch, and comprehensive facilities including a gymnasium, medical center, and dining room. It's not just about developing players; the academy also hosts community foundation projects, further embedding football into the fabric of Montevideo society.

The Cultural Significance

In Uruguay, and particularly in Montevideo, football is more than a sport - it's a way of life. The country's early World Cup successes (1930 and 1950) and Olympic gold medals (1924 and 1928) have woven football inextricably into the national identity3. As Nicolás Lodeiro, a Uruguayan international player, puts it: "When you're growing, your parents tell you about our history." And in Uruguay, that history is primarily about football, not wars or political movements3. This deep-rooted passion is visible throughout Montevideo. During World Cup seasons, the city transforms into a sea of light blue, with Uruguayan flags adorning everything from apartment balconies to pet stores8. Montevideo's football culture is a unique blend of history, passion, and community. From the iconic Estadio Centenario to the local baby fútbol clubs, from the fierce Peñarol-Nacional rivalry to the new City Football Academy, the city breathes and lives football. It's a testament to how a sport can shape a nation's identity and a city's soul, making Montevideo truly the beating heart of Uruguayan football.

Top 5 Secrets in Montevideo

Montevideo, the capital of Uruguay, is a city brimming with hidden treasures and unique experiences that often go unnoticed by casual visitors. Here are the top 5 secrets of Montevideo, Uruguay, that reveal the city's true essence and charm:

1. The World's Longest Continuous Sidewalk

One of Montevideo's best-kept secrets is La Rambla, the world's longest continuous sidewalk14. Stretching over 22 kilometers along the coastline, this promenade offers an unparalleled urban experience. La Rambla is more than just a walkway; it's the lifeline of the city, where locals and visitors alike come to exercise, socialize, and enjoy breathtaking views of the Rio de la Plata. The promenade connects several of Montevideo's neighborhoods, each with its own distinct character. From the historic Ciudad Vieja to the modern Pocitos, a stroll along La Rambla provides a comprehensive tour of the city's diverse landscapes and architecture. As you walk, you'll encounter street performers, local artisans, and impromptu tango dancers, all contributing to the vibrant atmosphere. For the best experience, visit La Rambla during sunset. The golden hour casts a magical glow over the city, transforming the promenade into a romantic setting. Many locals gather here with their thermoses of mate, a traditional Uruguayan herbal tea, to share with friends while watching the sun dip below the horizon.

2. The Hidden Culinary Paradise of Mercado del Puerto

Tucked away in the heart of Ciudad Vieja is Mercado del Puerto, a gastronomic haven that showcases the best of Uruguayan cuisine14. This 19th-century wrought-iron structure, originally a train station, now houses numerous parrillas (grills) and restaurants, each competing to serve the most delicious asado (barbecue) in town. The secret to truly enjoying Mercado del Puerto lies in embracing the local dining culture. Arrive hungry and be prepared to indulge in a carnivore's paradise. The air is thick with the aroma of sizzling meats, and the atmosphere is lively with the chatter of locals and tourists alike. For an authentic experience, order a parrillada completa, a mixed grill typically featuring various cuts of beef, pork, and lamb, along with offal delicacies like sweetbreads and blood sausages. Pair your meal with a glass of Tannat, Uruguay's signature red wine, and you'll be dining like a true Montevidean. Don't rush your meal; instead, take your time to savor the flavors and soak in the vibrant ambiance. Strike up a conversation with the grill masters, known as asadores, who are often more than happy to share their barbecue secrets and stories about the market's rich history.

3. The Underground World of Candombe

While tango might be the dance most associated with the Rio de la Plata region, Montevideo harbors a lesser-known but equally captivating musical tradition: Candombe8. This Afro-Uruguayan rhythm, recognized by UNESCO as Intangible Cultural Heritage, is the heartbeat of Montevideo's African-descended communities. To experience the true essence of Candombe, venture into the neighborhoods of Barrio Sur and Palermo on weekend evenings. Here, you might stumble upon impromptu street performances called llamadas, where groups of drummers parade through the streets, their hypnotic rhythms echoing off the colonial buildings. For a more immersive experience, visit the studio of Lobo Nuñez, a legendary Afro-Uruguayan drum maker and percussionist6. Nuñez is a master of Candombe, and a visit to his workshop offers a unique opportunity to learn about the history and significance of this musical tradition from one of its most respected practitioners. During Carnival, which in Montevideo lasts for over 40 days (the longest in the world), Candombe takes center stage1. The Desfile de Llamadas, a two-night parade featuring competing Candombe groups, is a spectacle of music, dance, and colorful costumes that shouldn't be missed.

4. The City's Hidden Art Scene

Montevideo's art scene is a well-kept secret that rewards those willing to explore beyond the main tourist attractions. The city is home to numerous museums and galleries, but its true artistic spirit can be found in unexpected places. Start your artistic journey at the Museo Nacional de Artes Visuales (MNAV) in Parque Rodó2. This museum houses an impressive collection of Uruguayan art alongside works by international masters like Picasso and Goya. However, the real secret lies in the museum's commitment to showcasing up-and-coming local artists through meticulously curated temporary exhibits. For a more unconventional art experience, explore the city's street art scene. Montevideo's walls serve as canvases for local and international artists, with vibrant murals adorning buildings throughout the city. The neighborhoods of Ciudad Vieja and Cordón are particularly rich in street art, with new pieces appearing regularly. Don't miss the opportunity to visit local artists' studios. Many artists open their workspaces to visitors, offering a behind-the-scenes look at their creative process. These visits can be arranged through local art galleries or cultural organizations.

5. The City's Unique Blend of Tradition and Modernity

Perhaps the most intriguing secret of Montevideo is its ability to seamlessly blend tradition with modernity. This harmonious coexistence is evident in various aspects of city life, from architecture to customs. In Ciudad Vieja, you'll find colonial-era buildings housing cutting-edge tech startups and modern art galleries. This juxtaposition of old and new creates a unique urban landscape that tells the story of Montevideo's evolution. The city's cafe culture is another example of this blend. Traditional cafes like Café Brasilero, with its century-old decor, coexist with modern, hipster-friendly coffee shops8. Both types of establishments serve as social hubs where you can experience the local custom of merienda, an afternoon snack typically consisting of coffee or mate and pastries. Even Montevideo's most traditional customs have been adapted for modern times. Take mate, for instance. While traditionally drunk from a gourd through a metal straw, you'll now see locals carrying thermos flasks and using modern, easy-to-clean cups3. Yet, the social aspect of sharing mate remains unchanged, symbolizing friendship and equality. This unique blend extends to the city's festivals as well. During Carnival, traditional murga performances, known for their satirical commentary on current events, incorporate modern themes and musical styles while maintaining their historical roots3. Discovering these secrets of Montevideo reveals a city that defies easy categorization. It's a place where history and progress coexist, where traditional customs evolve without losing their essence, and where the warmth and friendliness of the locals make every visitor feel at home. These hidden aspects of Montevideo offer a deeper, more authentic experience of Uruguay's capital, inviting travelers to look beyond the surface and discover the true heart of this fascinating city

A Day on La Rambla - Do It

 

 

La Rambla in Montevideo is not just a promenade; it’s a vibrant hub of activity that showcases the city’s coastal beauty and offers a plethora of experiences for tourists. Spanning over 22 kilometers, it is recognized as one of the longest continuous sidewalks in the world. Here’s a guide on what to do while exploring La Rambla during your visit to Montevideo.

Enjoy Scenic Walks and Cycling

One of the best ways to experience La Rambla is by taking a leisurely stroll or cycling along its picturesque path. The promenade is designed for pedestrians and cyclists alike, making it an ideal spot for both activities. As you walk or ride, enjoy the stunning views of the Río de la Plata, with the gentle breeze and sound of waves providing a serene backdrop. There are designated bike lanes, so renting a bike is a popular choice among visitors looking to cover more ground while enjoying the scenery.

Relax at the Beaches

La Rambla is dotted with several beautiful beaches, such as Playa Pocitos and Playa Ramirez, where you can unwind and soak up the sun. These beaches are perfect for swimming, sunbathing, or simply enjoying a picnic with friends or family. During summer months, they become lively spots filled with locals and tourists alike. Bring along some traditional mate, a popular Uruguayan drink, and enjoy it while lounging on the sand.

Engage in Outdoor Activities

For those seeking more active pursuits, La Rambla offers numerous options. You can try your hand at kite-flying, rollerblading, or skateboarding in designated areas along the promenade. Fishing is also popular among locals; you might see fishermen casting their lines into the river from various points along La Rambla. The expansive space allows for plenty of activities, catering to all ages and interests.

Visit Parks and Memorials

As you explore La Rambla, take time to visit some of the parks and memorials located along the route. Parque Rodó is one such park that features beautiful gardens, walking paths, and even an open-air market on weekends. Another significant site is the Holocaust Memorial, which serves as a poignant reminder of history and offers a quiet space for reflection.

Experience Local Culture

La Rambla is not just about natural beauty; it’s also a cultural hub. Street performers often entertain passersby with music and dance, especially during weekends. Keep an eye out for candombe drummers showcasing traditional Afro-Uruguayan rhythms. If you’re lucky enough to be in Montevideo during February, you may catch the vibrant Las Llamadas parade featuring these performers along La Rambla.

Savor Local Cuisine

No visit to La Rambla would be complete without indulging in some local cuisine. Numerous kiosks and cafes line the promenade, offering everything from fresh seafood to traditional Uruguayan dishes like asado (barbecue). Grab a bite at one of these eateries or pack your own lunch to enjoy at one of the beach spots along La Rambla.

Capture Stunning Sunsets

As evening approaches, La Rambla transforms into a magical place to witness breathtaking sunsets over the Río de la Plata. The colorful sky reflecting off the water creates an unforgettable view that’s perfect for photography enthusiasts or anyone looking to enjoy a peaceful moment. Many locals gather here around sunset with their mates to relax and socialize as day turns into night

Explore Nearby Attractions

While La Rambla itself is packed with activities, it also provides easy access to nearby attractions worth exploring. Just a short walk away is Mercado del Puerto, where you can experience local food culture in a bustling market atmosphere. Additionally, Pittamiglio Castle, known for its unique architecture and intriguing history, is located nearby and makes for an interesting visit after your time on La Rambla.

 

In summary, La Rambla in Montevideo offers an array of activities that cater to all interests—from outdoor adventures and cultural experiences to relaxation by the beach. Whether you're cycling along the coast or enjoying local cuisine at sunset, this iconic promenade is sure to leave you with lasting memories of your visit to Uruguay's capital.

 

This article is now featured on GPSmyCity!

 
To download this article for offline reading or create a self-guided walking tour to visit the attractions highlighted in this article, go to Walking Tours in Montevideo HERE.

Understanding Montevideo in One Phrase. Really.

I heard this sentence at a minimum of 10 years ago, but it still has the same ring to it. Mr. Anthony Bourdain was visiting MVD; he actually had family roots here. In his special, honest, unfiltered, unjaded way here it is. "Montevideo is like BA...without the LA."

*BA = Buenos Aires / LA = if you don't know this then...haha

Switzerland is in South America??

 

Uruguay is sometimes referred to as the "Switzerland of South America" due to its political stability, strong economy, and reputation as a safe and neutral country.

Uruguay has a long history of democracy and political stability, which has earned it a reputation as one of the most politically stable countries in the region. It is also known for its strong economy, which has been growing steadily over the past decade, and its advanced social welfare programs, which are among the most comprehensive in the region.

In addition, Uruguay has a reputation for being a safe and neutral country, much like Switzerland. It is not involved in any conflicts, and it has a long tradition of welcoming refugees and immigrants from around the world. This, combined with its strong economy and political stability, has made Uruguay an attractive destination for investors, tourists, and those seeking a peaceful and stable country to live in.

Top 10 Reasons Why You Need to Visit Uruguay

Well, in no long winded way, here you go! Oh, and if you have something to add, let's hear it:

1. Beautiful beaches: Uruguay is home to many stunning beaches, including Punta del Este and La Paloma, where you can enjoy sunbathing, swimming, and water sports.

2. Rich culture: Uruguay has a diverse and fascinating culture that reflects its European, African, and indigenous roots.

3. World-renowned wine: Uruguay is famous for its Tannat wine, which is considered some of the best in the world.

4. Delicious food: Uruguayan cuisine is a fusion of European and South American flavors, with dishes like chivito, asado, and empanadas.

5. Charming towns and cities: Uruguay's towns and cities are full of colonial architecture, vibrant culture, and friendly locals.

6. Music and dance: Uruguay is home to many different music and dance styles, including candombe, tango, and milonga.

7. Natural beauty: Uruguay is a small country with a diverse landscape, including beaches, forests, and wetlands.

8. Sports: Uruguay is a soccer-crazy nation, and you can catch a game at one of the many stadiums throughout the country.

9. Nightlife: Uruguay's cities come alive at night, with bars, clubs, and live music venues offering entertainment until the early hours of the morning.

10. Safety: Uruguay is one of the safest countries in South America, with a low crime rate and friendly, welcoming people.

Ciudad Vieja's Guided Walking Tour!!

My Virtual Walking Tour is finally ready! It takes you on a walk through the Old City with all of its highlights, history, and of course, its food. It can be seen via Iphones, Ipads, and Ipod Touches and even off line too.

Check it out here!

San Diego Reader just showcased Montevideo and Uruguay's Carnaval times today!!

Hostels of Montevideo

There are a few good hostels around town, but I am not going to beef up hostels I haven't visited.

Che Legarto is one of the gems just off of the Plaza de Independencia. The building is gorgeous, and the crew there has really done up the hostel nicely. They are an accomodating, friendly, and very helpful hostel.

Posada al Sur is another very cool spot, and a bit further into "the dangerous" Ciudad Vieja (but it is not really dangerous, just don't be dumb and walk at night with a flashing digital camera, a rolex watch, and an Ipod, for example). The atmosphere is very relaxed with open rooms and a big comfortable kitchen. This is a favorite for me.

There are a few other hostel choices as well: Red Hostel, Viajero, etc., but I have not entered them yet.

One Month Mark

It's close to noon, and I feel like I have already had enough good vibes for the whole day. I met with someone in a business-type appointment (not to sound dodgy, nothing illegal) at 9AM. We spoke for 15 minutes, then they invited me to a local cafe for breakfast.

I then got the story on Ciudad Vieja, the "Zona Roja" (where all the men were tended to by prostitutes), and the changes going on here. But let's not skip over the Red Light District part of this - my new acquaintence (a female) lived next to the brothels, and ended up becoming friends a few of the girls...and in one case it was a man, posing to be a girl (but doing it so effectively that he/she made cars stop on the street as he/she walked past usually wearing a bikini or something else revealing). But this is getting us on a tangent. Without the pictures of the prostitute, with his/her 5 o'clock shadow (which apparently could be seen at close view), this is going nowhere.

Wait, how could this "business-type appointment" not sound dodgy now? Haha, good stuff, but I swear it has nothing to do with prostitution of any kind. At least I don't think so?

Anyways, after the meeting, I knew where I had to go: my Calle de Alzaibar food market of Tuesdays and Fridays - located at the end of the Peatonal Sarandi walking street. And now I have found my people for this market. I go to see the sweetheart Rosana for my vegetables and fruits, and for a few moments of chatting. While speaking with Rosana today, an older lady heard my accent and spoke to me in beautifully understandable English. I asked her how she spoke so well, and got this reply, "I went to School ______ (I don't remember the exact name) when I was 12 years old." Wow, that's it? Then she told me I had beautiful green eyes, or blue, or whatever. For this she makes it into the entry as well (just kidding, sort of).

Here is Rosana. No joke, and back to the Montevideo neighborhood subject, when I was walking back to my place after taking this photo I bumped into an English teacher I met last week. Small world here.

After saying my farewells to Rosana, I headed down to the further end of the street to grab some of the cheese (sold at a better price on this side of the market). I've bought from the vendor a few times before, nice guy. He realized my accent was more Mexican than Uruguayan, and with this knew that I loved spicy foods. And then he took it a step further and knew that I liked stronger cheeses. Sold.

Over two pounds of bananas, two pounds of tomatoes, 6 oranges, 2 peaches, and a big chunk of strong cheese: US$ 4.00. Hmmm.

Uruguayan Mate

A few years ago I spent three months in Argentina. In less than two weeks here in Uruguay I have already learned more about the yerba leaves and mate tradition. They take drinking mate to a whole new level. Seeing someone walking the streets holding their mate cup, and carrying their thermals (holding hot water) under their arms is not strange - it is expected. They don't mess around.

I have fallen back into the mate way of being...I love the stuff. But not as much as I love what it signifies: friendship, mellow times spent together, and tradition, among other things yet to find out.