Carnival Times in Montevideo...Delayed

I feel like I just got back from Rio for some reason. Perhaps because the image of large bodies in almost no clothing won't leave the memory banks. Maybe because I fell in love with samba music and have been listening to the music here in Montevideo.

Or it could be the fact that people in Montevideo are in love with Carnival times. From what I have been hearing/reading, they celebrate Carnival for 40 days - the longest Carnival in the world. Below is a picture from past party times:


The inaugurational parade was set to begin yesterday, but was rained out. The Uruguayans looked at the weather forecast, noted that today and Saturday would be rainy, so now Sunday is the day.

SUNDAY is the day. At 6 p.m. here the carnival will start. And at 9 p.m. here the Super Bowl will be shown. Oh what a SUNDAY. Carnival and American football. What could be a stranger mix of entertainment?

Mate News

An impressive mate study concluded this month (by a man that has a "magister" degree?). It's findings:

Yerba mate contains 24 vitamins and minerals, 15 amino acids, and 11 polyphenols, a group of phytochemicals which act as powerful antioxidants.
Polyphenols are considered to exhibit anticancer effects in mammals by strengthening an organism's natural defenses and protecting it against cellular destruction.

• Vitamins: A, C, E, B1, B2, Niacin (B3), B5, B Complex
• Minerals: Calcium, Manganese, Iron, Selenium, Potassium, Magnesium, Phosphorus, Zinc
• Additional Compounds: Carotene, Fatty Acids, Chlorophyll, Flavonols,
Polyphenols, Inositol, Trace Minerals, Antioxidants, Tannins, Pantothenic Acid and 15 Amino Acids.

Check it out.

The Vibe of Uruguay

Lame title for this entry, but it rhymes so I went with it.

I think (hope) that it is easy to tell from my entries that I am a fan of the people, the culture, the land, and the language here in Uruguay. Here is a great place for many things.

But also, strange things happen here. For instance, today, I needed to speak with a judge. I was told that there is a free toll telephone number to call. I called it, and the line was busy. No cue to wait in. The line was busy. I national toll free number didn't have a waiting system set up for (perhaps) the many callers it receives.

Today I bought some blank CDs at a local store I went to before. The vendor, "These discs will be 8 pesos." 'But I bought blank discs last time for 6 pesos. Do you have anything less expensive here today?'. "Oh, yes we have those 6 peso discs, but we also have 4 peso discs as well if you would rather have those." Says something for the economy and ways of thought in Uruguay...I think at least.

Classic.

Country People in Rocha

I was in a part of Rocha to see a new beach and to hopefully have a few solid days of bodysurfing. But I didn't expect the wind to be there too. The waves were blown out, and the sand was annoyingly pecking at my skin on the first day.The husband of the owner of my place there in the beachtown came over to my place to see if everything was alright.

We spoke of the wind, and the waves. In less than a minute I was invited to the San Miguel National Park on the border of Uruguay and Brazil - he was the head park ranger. I am not sure if it was the Uruguayan niceness in him that caused the invitation, or his sheer boredom in his cabin all alone in the wilderness of the park. But either way, I was thankful to see the park and get a bit of the history of the land.

"The Cars" in Rocha??

I am not sure why, but it is very clear that Uruguay (at least Montevideo) is in love with music of from the eighties. I don't mean only Spanish music either. Groups like Blondie, Queen, Climie Fisher (who?), Marillion (again, who?), etc. These past few days I spent time in a small, very small, beach town in the county of Rocha.

There was only one little restuarant to spend time in (well, that was on the main road), and above was the view from my little table while I listened to some great, horrible, and unknown 80s tunes. My Uruguayan friend was singing almost all of the words to songs I have never even heard before (and thankfully, because their sounds were painful for me).

It was really a bit surreal hearing some of the songs here (including Stone Temple Pilots...something I haven't heard forever but hold very dearly to my high school years in California).

Again, not kidding about their love for the 80s. On August 24th, each year, young, old and all people from Montevideo come out to celebrate the music of the 80s. Fascinating.

Back to Yerba and Mate

Back to drinking mate in Uruguay. I didn't realize how much I missed it.

The life here in Montevideo, and even more so outside of the city, is so relaxing. But there is no samba that I have found so far...could be the next hunt (well, there probably is somewhere but I haven't seen it - if you know where it is please let me know).

It's nice to return to a place that feels so safe and comfortable. On that note, here are some of my articles published in the last month:

How to Drink Mate
Montevideo
Kids in Montevideo

And a couple that were delayed in getting published that came out last month:

9 Reasons to Visit Sri Lanka 2009
My Mexico

Remnants of Rio

OK, the last post about Rio is here - maybe. There is a new guide out for visitors wanting to find the fun parts of the city and to go out. It's called Rio For Partiers. It has quickly made a lot of news in Rio.

It is a city guide that includes information on how to pick up Cariocas (people from Rio). Rio for Partiers breaks down the women into four groups, and how to address each one of them in order to get the desired result (more or less, it sounds like). Rio's Tourist Director wants it put out of circulation. The aunt of my friend (who is from Rio) told me how this depiction of Rio is false and how it brings in the bad tourists looking for one thing.

Fair enough and understood. But then later in the day, when we were eating lunch, the aunt told me that Cariocas use the word "comer" meaning to eat, but that it also means to have sex. Wow, that is some sort of relation there. Oh ya, and this is what I had to order for this lunch when I saw it:

The Best Legs in Rio

It's been a week here in Rio. I saw Christ. I visited a few favelas. I samba'd as best this gringo could. It's been great to briefly know the city.

And last night, as I was sitting in a bar with some new friends while looking out onto the neighborhood's streets, I decided.

Yep, Lapa at night has the best legs in Rio. So I had to ask if I could take a picture; he/she (transvestite) was very thankful for my compliment and was a fantastic model...even moving to get under the street light for a better photo.

Samba

After living in Montevideo for a few months, I have become accustomed with hearing candombe and the rhythmic beats of the drums. It has put me in a trance of sorts, I now realize.

I realize because the samba music here in Rio has struck a chord within me. Beautiful, happy, unifying, and a general 'no worries' feel surrounds the area immediately with these sounds. I'm not dogging candombe (or saying that it isn't happy music etc.), but I pick samba any day of the week. I might get hurt for writing these words upon my return to Montevideo, but it is done.

Fast, Slow and Not Furious

Two opposites here in Rio have been experienced consistently. 1) The speed at which the bus drivers race the city's streets. The bus guys must be betting to see who can charge through their routes the quickest...without stopping until they really have to. People can't afford to wait on the curb because the busses won't stop.



2) The time spent in lines - from waiting for a delicious fruit drink such as acai to just wanting to get on the elevator. This picture doesn't show the 20 other people are finishing the line to the left, and the fact that 25 people must have fit into that little lift.

Cristo on the hill

It's been awhile since I have visited a heavily loaded tourist area. At times I think that I am more intrigued by the mounds of people around me than the actual attraction.


Enter Christ on top of a peak in Rio de Janeiro. Wow, this place was a madhouse.



I think I took more pictures of the extranjeros than of Mr. Cristo himself.

Transvestites..Rio Style

So I was confused with the beach scene. I found out today though that Sunday is by far the worst day to go to the beach - all of the people from out of town hit the beaches on this day (to say it nicely). OK, now things are starting to make sense. That is until I saw the transvetites tonight in the party neighborhood of Lapa. They have, convincingly, the best legs I have seen so far in Rio.

What is happening to me here?

Rio Legends..Or Are They

From what I have read they are true. From what I have heard from a few friends they are true. And from what I have experienced very briefly outside of Brazil they are true.

1) The girls (guys could be in this legend, but I wasnt paying attention) in Rio are stunning. Especially, being blunt, their bodies.

2) Brazilians are very warm, open, full of life people. I have experienced this already outside of the country.

Results: I walked along Copacabana and Ipanema beach for a complete day. I felt as if I were at a beach named Big C in my hometown. I didnt even see one body that turned my head. I was dumbstruck...and I broke my third pair of sandals in as many weeks somehow.

Onto the second assumption: The first contact with a busman was horrendous. He almost refused to give back the due change. But he did so after asking for it, with an ugly expression.
Later on, at night, a waiter would barely mutter a word to my friends and I. He offered no help or explainations either.

Onto hunting for the true legend...

Favelas in Rio

I have been in Brasil for 12 hours or so and I am already yearning to visit a favela. But all the locals tell me that I am crazy.
Last night I was told that Michael Jackson visited one of these favelas. Check this out...I might have a new favorite music video.

Hostels of Montevideo

There are a few good hostels around town, but I am not going to beef up hostels I haven't visited.

Che Legarto is one of the gems just off of the Plaza de Independencia. The building is gorgeous, and the crew there has really done up the hostel nicely. They are an accomodating, friendly, and very helpful hostel.

Posada al Sur is another very cool spot, and a bit further into "the dangerous" Ciudad Vieja (but it is not really dangerous, just don't be dumb and walk at night with a flashing digital camera, a rolex watch, and an Ipod, for example). The atmosphere is very relaxed with open rooms and a big comfortable kitchen. This is a favorite for me.

There are a few other hostel choices as well: Red Hostel, Viajero, etc., but I have not entered them yet.

Punta del Este

The famed Punta del Este. This place is hyped up to be a Miami - not of sorts, a real Miami-ish place. It is on the coast of Uruguay...about 2 hours outside of Montevideo. The rich, the famous, the VIPs hit up this resort beach town for rays in the day and an all night party with other famously rich people.

It pretty much lived up to the hype. The money flew around, the styles and showiness (i.e. one bar wanted some U$S 2,000 for a private table), and yes, some skimpy bathing suits.

I even ran into a guy that went to my high school back in Corona del Mar. He immediately began talking about the scene and the ways to get "in" and so on. I stopped listening pretty early on.

Punta del Este is a beautiful place, and there is a lot of action going on in the months of January to February. After that is when the locals like the place most...great weather, no loud "Argentines (as the locals say)", and beaches to themselves.

Glad I went, but not looking to go back any time soon!

But get this (sort of ironic): I am off to RIO tomorrow!!! Bring it on! I am very excited to say the least...but not sure how much I will be able to write up there.

More Meat, Carne, Asado, Flesh

And I thought, a bit densely, that my meat consumption would decrease after the holidays. It has jumped up a bit with all of the asados I have been lucky enough to partake in.

In case I failed to explain how much meat these people eat, I thought today´s visit to the grocery store a very fitting picture. Look at how much meat is being offered. When I took this picture it was after a gang of Uruguayans left as well. It was definitely the hot spot of the store.



No, this is not a butchery. This is behind the deli counter in the supermarket. Meat, tons of it.










And in another fitting note, the manager approached me and let me know that taking pictures of the meat was not permitted. I got a good chuckle out of that one. The all powerful meat - they don´t want to give their secrets away (justifiably right?).

Back to Taxi Talk

I trusted him. We spoke about mate, about his hometown of Colonia and how the colonial city is known for their cheese among other things, and then more about mate. But then came the realization that this taxi-man was taking me for a ride. A long one.

A trip that should have been 100 pesos cost me double. He kept on saying, ¨Algunas cuadras mas (a few more blocks).¨ It´s not the money that bothers me, it´s the thought of being lied to.

But still my buddy the bus is here for me. He never lies with his fare or his route. He stays true to himself and me. Oh my buddy.

What do you call that Thing?

I have heard this word before. I don't admit using this word ever. But I have never seen it written anywhere. Who would write it? Why would they think it worthy of space on a page? Only in a dictionary of Spanish translations to English...in Uruguay. The Spanish word is "Chisme" meaning gossip, but apparently some other things as well. Look at one of the words used in the dictionary here to define it.

Hello 2009 - Post Fesitivity Times

So the holiday season flew by - a visit to Salto for some great asado and better company, a return to Montevideo for New Year's celebration (which sincerely reminded me of Marti Gras in New Orleans in the Mercado del Puerto) along with another beautifully orchestrated asado hosted by a friend's brilliant family. More and more and more food. Ahh the food. I haven't eaten as much meat in a matter of two weeks in my whole life. No joke.

The above picture is an asado ordered at a restaurant here in Montevideo - for two people it was suggested. TWO? No wonder some of the Uruguayans are a bit bigger. That was some serious work...entertaining, satisfying, interesting, filling work.

After a few asados I got to the point where I stopped asking what it was that I was chewing on. Some pieces were a bloody mix of cow parts (some made with adding sugar, the others with salt), kidneys, liver, intestine, and other parts I am sure. The picture to the left is some chimichurri sauce, a kidney, and something from the cow's head region. But please correct me if you recognize something different...which is entirely possible.

Again, wow. I am stuffed, and I haven't even eaten today.